has inevitably extended to the realm of death as well—both in terms of appearance and form, and in terms of the unbearable difficulties of access and traffic problems, and the access of the dead and their mourning relatives to a cemetery where they must bid farewell to the departed and return to life. Now, instead of the pleasant garden cemetery of Imamzadeh Abdollah (which, despite a temporary closure during Mr. Karbaschi's tenure—when they planned to turn it into a park—has fortunately not yet been shut down, and one can spend hours there, wandering in the mysterious depths of death and life), a Behesht-e Zahra has been established that has spread from east and west and south and north as far as it possibly could, and now has no more room. The dead from the north, west, and east of Tehran must travel kilometers upon kilometers through streets choked with automobiles and clogged highways—including the Behesht-e Zahra highway, which is nearly as long as the distance between two cities—to finally reach the threshold of Behesht-e Zahra and rest in its ugly, uniform, square-shaped plots. Eight years ago, in Shahr Magazine issue 24, a report was published about a meeting of the elders of Darake, who were demanding the reopening of their local cemetery, along with tables listing
the names of inactive cemeteries in Tehran, accompanied by this question: Why is burial in local cemeteries not permitted? And now, eight years later, while the worsening of the space shortage crisis at Behesht-e Zahra last year promised a resolution to the problem, this question still stands—because once again, as always, city officials chose the easiest path: expanding the area of Behesht-e Zahra.
This time, we can ask Mr. Qalibaf, the Mayor of Tehran:
"Why is burial in local cemeteries not permitted? What religious ruling or
customary law or rigorous environmental study prevents this?
Why, despite the people's own desire to use the old cemeteries, can no official
be found to open these locks that were closed without reason?
Why, based on Tehran's comprehensive plan, has no serious effort been made to establish cemeteries in four
We have dedicated the special section of this issue to stage design for the dead in cemeteries—also called dust-lands and resting places. Although the thought of death and attending to it appears unpleasant and repugnant, and we perhaps deliberately turn away from it, it has been and remains humankind's most important and enduring preoccupation. The desire to escape death and attain the water of life and eternal existence has been the subject of the earliest myths and tales in all civilizations and cultures, and a significant portion of human philosophy and art has been and continues to be devoted to contemplating death. "Life is a small fragment left over from death"—this is a verse by Walt Whitman, the contemporary American poet, that defines the place of death in life; a death without which life would never have been what it has been until now. It is for this reason that the manner of attending to death also reveals the manner of living. Greater knowledge of cultures and civilizations has been made possible through excavation of tombs and graves, and even today, in all tourist guidebooks for the world's must-see cities, cemeteries are counted among the most attractive tourist destinations. I can claim that perhaps for understanding the life of Orthodox Jews, visiting the old cemetery and the adjacent death museum in Prague's old ghetto is more useful than studying any book on the subject. There you easily discover what elaborate and complex rites and rules Judaism has for all stages of life, which are in a sense directed toward preparing for death. These meticulous, sacred, and inviolable rites for birth, circumcision, coming of age, marriage, food and drink, even the dishes and vessels used or the plaque on the door of houses that indicates the direction of prayer before entering—all reach their pinnacle in the rules of shrouding and burial. In these rites, in addition to the rules of post-mortem cleansing (washing with water and egg as a symbol of life, combing the hair with a silver comb and cleaning under the nails with a silver implement), the manner of dressing the dead, placing them in a coffin (which must be filled with soil from the Holy Land and bear no adornment whatsoever), rules for how to give charity, details of the burial ceremony, and even the type of clothing worn by burial officials, as well as the inscriptions on the tombstone, have all been specified. Remarkably, all of this comes to an abrupt end at the threshold of the cemetery beside the museum. The cemetery has a strange appearance. The stones stand crowded together without any markers, creating the uncanny impression that the dead have been buried standing up to save surface area. In Sunni cemeteries, there are not even stones—the ground is bare of stones, inscriptions, and any sign of life, as though the dead have been drawn into the earth, which has become smooth and flat once more. While Iranian cemeteries and also Christian cemeteries in European cities, with their mausoleums, mirror boxes, tombstones engraved with the most beautiful designs and sculptures, have given physical form above ground to the continuation of life underground. In this issue, we have endeavored to present a selection of all this, along with images of today's centralized cemeteries in the country's cities, as well as newly designed examples from around the world, presented in the sections on Iran and the world. Comparing Tehran's Behesht-e Zahra with Imamzadeh Abdollah and Ibn Babuyeh, Isfahan's Bagh-e Rezvan with Takht-e Foulad, and Shiraz's Behesht-e Zahra with the Dar al-Salam cemetery confirms this sorrowful reality that the urban planning and architectural crisis of our lives has inevitably
Inactive and Abandoned Cemeteries in the City of Tehran (Year 2001)
Row, Cemetery Name, Area in meters, Covered by, Facilities, Address, Date of Last Burial
3, Chizar, 3,000, Municipality, Municipality greenhouse, Haghighat-e Avval St., end of Ferdowsi Alley, 30 years ago
4, Niavaran, 1,800, Municipality, Sports ground, Hesar-e Bu Ali, opposite Niavaran Cultural Center, 25 years ago
5, Niavaran, 2,500, Municipality, Sports ground, Hesar-e Bu Ali, opposite Niavaran Cultural Center, 25 years ago
6, Tajrish, 50,000, Hospital, Shohada Hospital, Tajrish Square, 50 years ago
8, Ajoudanieh, 2,500, Municipality, Park, 7th Eastern Ajoudanieh St., 30 years ago
9, Jamaran, 30,000, Municipality, Municipality District 3, Jamaran St., 50 years ago
10, Asadabad, 6,000, Education, High school, Esmail Niazzadeh St., 30 years ago
11, Imamzadeh Saleh, 4,500, Endowments Org., Shrine, Tajrish, end of Kashef Alley, 28 years ago
12, Kashk, 4,000, Municipality, Wasteland, Darband, Water Authority St., next to Golestan, 15 years ago
13, Zahir al-Dowleh, 3,000, Okhovat Society, Deed in name of Okhovat, Darband, Zahir al-Dowleh St., 13 years ago
14, Imamzadeh Qasem, 1,600, Endowments Org., Shrine/clinic, Darband, Golab Dareh, Imamzadeh Qasem Sq., 25 years ago
15, Old Velenjak, 10,000, Municipality, Park, Za'faranieh, end of Asef St., 20 years ago
17, Zargandeh, 1,500, Municipality, Park, Shariati St., Zargandeh St., 30 years ago
18, Dowlat, 1,300, Municipality, Municipality District 3, Dowlat St., before Qanat intersection, 30 years ago
19, Dowlat, 2,000, British Embassy, World War memorial, Dowlat St., past police station, 45 years ago
20, Dowlat, 1,500, Endowments Org., Abandoned inactive, Dowlat St., Haj Agha Miri St., 17 years ago
21, Shamsabad, 4,500, Endowments Org., Abandoned inactive, Above Shamsabad curve, Ershad Alley, 30 years ago
22, Qanat-e Kosar, 4,000, —, Residential area, 4th Tehranpars Roundabout, Tohid St., 30 years ago
23, Imamzadeh Sho'aib, Municipality District 5, Shrine, Kan area, Sarasiab or Payin Darreh
24, Lomban, 70,000, —, Art school/training center, Tehran-e No, west of Felestin Art School, Ashegha Alley, 25 years ago
25, Imamzadeh Abdollah, 2,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, Qazvin St., 16-metri Amiri, 13-metri Hajian, 25 years ago
26, Armenians, 18,000, Municipality, Park, Komeil St., Rezvan Park, 30 years ago
27, Imamzadeh Ma'sum, 12,000, Municipality, Green space, Qazvin St., Imamzadeh Ma'sum Bridge, 30 years ago
28, Tomb of Sheikh Hadi, 600, Endowments Org., Inactive cemetery, Sepah St., Sheikh Hadi St., 30 years ago
29, Khanqah of Safi Ali Shah, 1,500, —, Hall for burial ceremonies, Behind Plan Organization, 50 years ago
30, Imamzadeh Yahya, 2,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, 15 Khordad St., Imamzadeh Yahya Alley, 50 years ago
31, Imamzadeh Seyyed Nasreddin, 2,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, Khayyam St., Seyyed Nasreddin Station, 30 years ago
32, Imamzadeh Seyyed Esmail, 3,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, Sirus St., Seyyed Esmail Alley, 28 years ago
33, Imamzadeh Zeid, 12,000, Municipality/Endowments, Fire station/shrine, Inside Tehran Bazaar, 30 years ago
34, Sar-e Qabr-e Agha, 5,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, Sirus St., Saheb Jam' St., 20 years ago
35, Anbar-e Kah, 20,000, Hospital, Hospital, Amin al-Soltan St., Kah Forushan Sq., 100 years ago
36, Imamzadeh Haft, Endowments Org., Commercial area, abandoned, Bazaar, Louti Saleh Alley
37, Imamzadeh Vali, Endowments Org., Shrine, Located in the Bazaar
39, Sarcheshmeh, 20,000, Local residents, Shops/warehouse/university, Sarcheshmeh, Mostafa Khomeini St., Zoghali-ha Alley, 100 years ago
40, Deh-e Mesgarabad, 7,000, Endowments Org., Abandoned without burial, Deh-e Mesgarabad, 3 years ago
41, Imamzadeh Ahl-e Ali, 6,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, Semnan St., Astaneh St., 27 years ago
42, Imamzadeh Seyyed Malek Khatun, 10,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, Shahid Seyyed Javadi St., off Atabak, 26 years ago
43, Baha'is, 100,000, Martyrs Foundation, Under Martyrs Foundation, Khavaran St., next to District 2 motor pool, 20 years ago
44, Mesgarabad, 21,000, —, Park/Basij/IRGC pool, Khavaran St., inside Fada'iyan-e Eslam Park, 27 years ago
45, Mesgarabad II, 20,000, Municipality, Green space, Khavaran St., behind Hashemabad, 22 years ago
46, Imamzadeh Hassan, 30,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, Qazvin St., Imamzadeh Hassan St., 30 years ago
47, Rezvan, 1,100, —, Arcade under construction, Imamzadeh Hassan St., opposite Imamzadeh Park, 30 years ago
48, Current site of District, 15,000, Municipality, Municipality district, Imamzadeh Hassan St., Ardeshir St., 28 years ago
49, Yaftabad, 1,500, Municipality, Park, Yaftabad, Arshadabad St., 20 years ago
50, Khani Abad-e No, 7,000, Municipality, Green space/residential, Khani Abad-e No, Bahmanyar St., 20 years ago
51, Bataein Village, 3,000, Endowments Org., Abandoned, Qom Road, Kahrizak, Bataein Village, 30 years ago
52, Imamzadeh Roqayeh, 400, Endowments Org., Shrine, Qom Road, Kahrizak, Bataein Village, 6 years ago
53, Khavarin Village, 7,000, Endowments Org., Abandoned cemetery, Qom Road, Transformer St., Khavarin Village, 7 years ago
54, Imamzadeh Abolhasan, 2,000, Endowments Org., Shrine, Shahr-e Rey, 3 years ago
55, Imamzadeh Taher, 7,000, Endowments Org., Abandoned, Saveh Road, Ja'farabad, Naserieh Village, 20 years ago
56, Dowlatabad, 30,000, Municipality, Park, First Dowlatabad Roundabout, beginning of Dowlatabad St., 25 years ago
57, Seh Dokhtaran, 25,000, Municipality, Bagh-e Sanjar, Shahr-e Rey, Haram St., Seh Dokhtaran St., 25 years ago
All cemeteries in this table lack facilities, except Hesarak which has a washing facility. All of them operate under the Endowments Organization and under the management of local residents, local councils, or boards of trustees.
Ibn Babuyeh, 95,000, Daily with permit, Fada'iyan-e Eslam, Se-Rah
Row, Cemetery Name, Area in meters, New Burials, Covered by, Facilities, Transport Service, Management, Address
1, French and Italians, 30,000, Zero with church permit, No facilities, No transport, Italian Church, Shahid Ahmad Tajeri St. (Vosuq-e Aramaneh)
2, Assyrians, 30,000, No burials since '67, With church permit, No facilities, No transport, Assyrian Church, Shahid Ahmad Tajeri St. (Vosuq-e Aramaneh)
3, Russians, 10,000, 15, With church permit, No facilities, No transport, Russian Embassy, Shahid Ahmad Tajeri St. (Vosuq-e Aramaneh)
4, Catholics, 70,000, 2, With church permit, No facilities, No transport, Armenian Caliphate Council, Shahid Ahmad Tajeri St. (Vosuq-e Aramaneh)
5, Armenians, 30,000, Land previously purchased, With church permit, No facilities, No transport, Armenian Caliphate Council, Semnan St., Astaneh St.
6, Jews, 60,000, With church permit, No facilities, No transport, Jewish Association, Khavaran St.
7, Hindus, 25,000, No burials, Indian Embassy, No facilities, No transport, Indian Embassy, Khavaran Road km 17 (bodies are cremated)
8, Gregorian Armenians, 220,000, 450, With church permit, Washing facility/waiting hall, No transport, Armenian Caliphate, Khavaran Road km 17 (active)
9, Baha'is, 5,000, 130, With Behesht-e Zahra permit, Washing facility, Yes, Baha'is, Khavaran Road km 17 (active)
10, Christians, 15,000, 10-15 per year, British Embassy, No facilities, No transport, US/Australian Embassies, Qom Road, opposite Tourist St.
11, Savra Armenians, 100,000, 100, With church permit, Washing facility, No transport, Armenian Church, Saveh Road, Zarafshan
12, Armenians, 80,000, 20, With church permit, Washing facility, No transport, Armenian Church, Saveh Road, Zarafshan
Row, Cemetery Name, Area in meters, New Burials, Covered by, Facilities, Transport Service, Management
1, Ya'qub Sheikh Kolini, 5,000, 4, Hasanabad Municipality, Shrine/restroom, No transport, Hasanabad Municipality, Qom Road, Hasanabad
2, Imamzadeh Esmail, 6,000, 17, Hasanabad Municipality, Shrine/restroom, No transport, Hasanabad Municipality, Qom Road, Hasanabad
3, Qal'eh Sheikh, 70,000, Daily burials, Endowments Org., Washing facility, Yes, Board of Trustees, Qom Road, Kahrizak, behind Asylum
4, Imamzadeh Ali Akbar, 2,000, 2, Endowments Org., Completely abandoned, Yes, Local Council, Qom Road, Palaein Village
5, Ahmadabad-e Mostofi, 6,000, Endowments Org., Local residents, Karaj Special Road, Ahmadabad Village
6, Hasanabad, 4,000, Endowments Org., Washing facility, Local residents, Karaj Special Road, Hasanabad Village
7, Imamzadeh Abdollah, 10,000, Endowments Org., Local residents, Karaj Special Road, past Sa'idabad
8, Garm Darreh, 5,000, 20, Endowments Org., Washing facility, No transport, Board of Trustees, Karaj Special Road km 20, Garm Darreh
9, Behesht-e Saleh, 8,000, 18, Endowments Org., Washing facility and caretaker, No transport, Local residents, Karaj Special Road km 17, Vardavar township
10, Behesht-e Fatemeh, 14,000, 56, Endowments Org./Municipality, Washing facility and waiting hall, Qods Municipality, Old Karaj Road, Qal'eh Hassan Khan
11, Nazam Village Imamzadeh Ebrahim, 60,000, 60, Endowments Org., Washing facility and shrine, No transport, Endowments Org., Saveh Road, Zarafshan
12, Imamzadeh Zeid, 40,000, 22, Endowments Org., Yes, Board of Trustees, Saveh Road, before Second Bridge
13, Yaftabad, 60,000, Daily burials, Endowments Org., Washing facility/mourning hall, Yes, Board of Trustees, Saveh Road, Yaftabad
14, Imamzadeh Reza, 7,000, Daily burials, Endowments Org., No facilities, No transport, Board of Trustees, Saveh Road, between Aliabad-e Qajar and Hosseinabad
15, Imamzadeh Abbas, 10,000, 68, Endowments Org., No facilities, No transport, Local Council, Saveh Road, Chahardangeh
16, Ja'farabad, 2,400, 2, Endowments Org., No facilities, No transport, Local residents, Saveh Road, Ja'farabad
17, Eslamshar, 5,000, Daily burials, Endowments Org./District, Washing facility, No transport, District Office, Saveh Road, Eslamshahr
18, Tour Qozabad, 2,000, 14, Endowments Org./District, No facilities, No transport, Local residents, Qom Road, Tour Qozabad Village
19, Behesht-e Zahra, 424,000, 140 persons daily, Full facilities, Yes, Tehran Municipality, Old Qom Road