Local and Vernacular Architecture

Siraf Historic Port

Mohammad Kangani·Photos: Hamid Akbari, Afsaneh Jafari·Bushehr Special Issue
Siraf Historic Port

The port of Siraf was one of Iran's most prosperous and magnificent harbors from the late Sasanian era onward. The famous sailors and merchants who came from this city engaged in maritime trade from ancient times with Muscat, Oman, Yemen, Zanzibar, and even China. Ya'qubi, one of the historians of that era, wrote: "China is a vast land, and whoever wishes to go to China by sea must cross seven seas, each with its own color, scent, fish, and wind, different from the next." He then added: "The first sea is the Persian Sea, and one must board a ship at Siraf and..."

The prosperity of this ancient port continued until the devastating earthquake of 977 CE, which destroyed Siraf and submerged a considerable part of it beneath the sea, after which it never regained its former glory. Throughout all these centuries, the principal occupations of the people of Siraf were seafaring, trade, and fishing.

The name Siraf derives from the word shilu, which in Sasanian Pahlavi means "valley" + "water" — i.e., "water valley." This word evolved from shilav to shilaf and then Shiraf — a coin discovered by the English archaeologist Dr. Whitehouse — and subsequently to Siraf.

In the texts of ancient geographers, the harsh climate of Siraf is noted. Drinking water was supplied from the relatively elevated region of Jam, a temperate area compared to the port itself. The problem of water scarcity led to remarkable arrangements for collecting water, including deep wells and stone collection basins.

Ibn al-Faqih writes: "Siraf is the greatest of the ports of Fars. There is neither cultivation nor cattle or sheep, only a place for the coming and going of ships. It is a city with many people. The people of that land spend great wealth on building their houses, such that a merchant may spend 30,000 dinars on the construction of a single house. Their buildings were of teak, as well as wood imported from the land of Zanj (Zanzibar). Siraf is very hot."
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Ancient Structures

From antiquity, structures such as the Gor Dakhmeh (rock-cut ossuaries), the fire temple, and a stone-paved road survive in Siraf, and from the medieval centuries, structures such as the Nassouri Castle remain. The tall buildings of Siraf, which sometimes reached five stories, were destroyed in the devastating earthquake.

Tall rock-cut ossuary (Gor Dakhmeh) with a dark entrance carved into the cliff face in the Lir Valley
Gor Dakhmeh — a Zoroastrian rock-cut ossuary in the Lir Valley
Cave entrance of another rock-cut tomb in the Lir Valley with stone rubble below
Another rock-cut tomb entrance in the Lir Valley
Stone fire temple structure (Tel Gonbad) on a hilltop overlooking the Lir Valley and surrounding mountains
Tel Gonbad — the fire temple, a nearly square chahar-taqi on a hill overlooking the Lir Valley
Interior of the fire temple showing arched openings, vaulted ceiling, and plasterwork with graffiti
Inside Tel Gonbad — the chahar-taqi structure with its arched windows and plasterwork
The Wells of Siraf

Among the most remarkable relics of Siraf's civilization are the deep wells extraordinarily excavated in the Lir Valley and on the heights. Their number is approximately 170, dug in two types: wells completely carved in rock with stone rings at the mouth for holding a pulley (1.1 meters in diameter), and wells dug on sandy surfaces with walls of sand and gravel. All display precise engineering, with depths ranging from four to approximately one hundred meters. Many contain fresh, drinkable water.

Ancient wells cut deep into layered rock with stone rings at the surface in the Lir Valley
The ancient wells of Siraf — carved into the rock with stone rings, some reaching 100 meters deep
Stone Basins

Cubic depressions carved into the mountainside for water storage number more than seven thousand basins. The basins are rectangular, some with overflow channels connecting to other basins. Beautiful stairways between them allowed access while keeping the purified water uncontaminated. This advanced technology enabled Siraf to thrive as an international port. The collected water gradually seeped into the earth, filling underground aquifers — the type of rock in Siraf's mountains enabled maximum groundwater infiltration with minimum evaporation.

Aerial view showing hundreds of rectangular stone water-collection basins carved into the hillside along a dry wadi
Aerial view of the stone water-collection basins — over 7,000 rectangular basins carved into the hillside
Wide view of the Lir Valley archaeological site with stone stairs, carved basins, and the tall Gor Dakhmeh in the background
The Lir Valley — stone stairs, water basins, and the Gor Dakhmeh rising above the archaeological landscape
Nassouri Castle

The Nassouri Castle is situated atop a hill in a strategic position. Built in 1808 by Sheikh Jabbar II, the castle's rectangular plan is oriented north-south, perpendicular to the coastline, commanding a view of all areas of the port. Built on two floors, its southeastern section features a four-story Shah-neshin tower for enjoying the seascape. The castle has two separate sections: the biruni (exterior) with the south courtyard, and the andaruni (interior) with the north courtyard.

Skyline view of the Nassouri Castle showing the windcatcher, watchtower, and sea in the background under dramatic clouds
The Nassouri Castle skyline — windcatcher, watchtower, and the Persian Gulf beyond

On the western side stands a windcatcher — the largest in Bushehr province and a feature unique to this castle among Siraf buildings. Next to it is a watchtower. The castle served as both a center for administering city affairs and a residence for the local sheikh. Its main decorations include wood carvings and plaster decorations, the latter being the most important architectural elements, featuring quasi-muqarnas plasterwork and Shahnameh relief scenes in the reception hall.

Close-up of the Nassouri Castle windcatcher — the largest in Bushehr province, with arched niches and ventilation slots
The windcatcher — largest in Bushehr province
View through the barred window of the castle tower looking over modern Siraf port and the coastline
View from the tower — Siraf port through the barred window
Ornate plasterwork surrounding a fireplace niche in the Nassouri Castle, with floral and geometric reliefs
Plasterwork fireplace niche — intricate floral reliefs
Arched niche with Shahnameh relief scenes — horseback archers and warriors in plaster
Shahnameh relief scenes in the reception hall
Ornate carved wooden studded door of the Nassouri Castle with intricate frame
Carved wooden door with traditional studs
View through an ornate arch framing the windcatcher and courtyard of the Nassouri Castle
The windcatcher framed through the courtyard arch

The castle was purchased from the Nassouri family by the Cultural Heritage Organization in 1999, registered as a national heritage site under number 3515, and is currently being restored as an accommodation and reception center under the Pardisan project.

* The author is the director of the Siraf Pars Museum Tourism Institute.

1. Such stone basins have been built in other locations along the Zagros, including Shushtar, though in far fewer numbers. In ancient cultures, water — alongside earth, wind, and fire — had a sacred dimension beyond practical utility. In South Asia, the ritual of bathing in sacred rivers continues to this day. One can imagine that the ancient inhabitants of Siraf, by building these basins, created a kind of artificial sacred river in which they purified not only the body but also the spirit. — The Editor